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THE ADVANTAGES OF BESPOKE TAILORING
WHY GOING BESPOKE IS BETTER, WHY SAVILE ROW COSTS SO MUCH AND WHY FITTING IS SO CRUCIAL
Have you ever wondered what the difference is between an off the peg suit and a bespoke suit? And why going bespoke costs so much more than simply paying a visit to Moss Bros? We speak to Sergi Martinez from the innovative company Martinfit to get the lowdown on bespoke tailoring.
What goes into making a bespoke suit?
"First of all, it is important to say that a client who decides to wear a bespoke suit is someone who desires to dress in an elegant way and probably also wants to give a distinguished look, with a personal touch. Anyone who has lived in a small or a big city knows that finding distinctive clothes can be frustrating since many of the highstreet stores sell the same thing. A bespoke suit or shirt does not only refer to a garment and its measures, it also refers to being able to customise it, having total freedom to decide what you want to wear in order to feel unique. Each bespoke garment is carefully made by hand according to the customer. Sometimes buying an off the peg suit is an exasperating experience which ends in buying something that might not exactly match your first ideas and, on top, does not fit your body measurements as expected."
How does the suit differ to an off the peg one?
"There are two vital points that make a bespoke suit differ from the rest: personalisation and measurements. First of all, as the customer has total freedom to choose their own tailored suit, shirt, waistcoat and more, he can choose from a wide range of styles and high-quality fabrics that will permit him to feel unique. As an example, the client is able to decide whether or not he adds embroidery on his jacket or shirt, choose the colour of their buttonholes or even decide on the jacket’s lining fabric. Secondly, the garment will be made manually and just for you, so the size is perfect for only you. Forget standard sizes, they belong to the past. Finally, as a rule of thumb, the quality is normally higher in bespoke suits since each garment is fully handmade and designed by expert tailors. But again, it does not mean that price has to be necessarily higher. Many companies take advantage of t new technologies offering a very good product at a great price. This is what we do at Martinfit, we offer all this for only €44 / £39 for our shirts and €199/ £169 for the bespoke suits."
What are the major advantages of going bespoke? The most important point of going bespoke is that you have chosen what you like and you don’t. You won’t be any more forced to buy suits that have been placed in the store window of big brands. I really would like to take this opportunity to introduce a new way of habit in the way we shop. We often like to stay in the comfort zone, to stick to what we have always done before, buying the same way we did before, in the same stores, so I would recommend everyone give a try to this new experience of online shopping. Most people like it and buy again with us. In fact, statistics show us than more than 70% of people who have bought with us, repeat. We realised that either you find competitive brands offering cheap and poor-quality garments at standard sizes or traditional tailors providing an excellent product, although really expensive and time demanding (the customer should visit the tailor several times for the perfect fit). Thanks to new technologies, Martinfit is positioned in between with both with an excellent product at a reasonable price. Besides, as it is now known for all of us, all body measures can be taken easily in 10 minutes, avoiding several visits to the tailor, which at the end is also time consuming and has an increase in the final price.
Why does Savile Row cost so much more?
"It is really simple. They have an infrastructure that increases their costs, which at the end is translated in the price of their products. And costs can be significantly cut down by taking few simple actions, such as reducing the number of visits to the store. Another fact that affects the price is that they have physical infrastructure, which logically increase costs without direct relation to the product’s quality. In our case, we operate only through the internet, which reduces costs in infrastructure."
What's the most important part of a suit for fit?
"In my opinion, the sleeve length is a very important part of a suit for fit, surprisingly forgotten too often. It is an important detail that denotes elegance. In fact, if the sleeve is too short or long, the impression is that we do not care about our look. Readers can take the right measure by standing up in a relaxed manner and dressing a fitted shirt. Take the measure vertically from the end of the shoulder, at the junction of the shoulder and sleeve, to the base of your thumb. As a reference for this measurement, a common size would correspond to 25 inches. I would recommend making the jacket’s sleeve length ½ inch shorter than the shirt’s sleeve length."
If we were to buy just one bespoke suit, what colour should it be?
"The black suit is certainly a piece that everyone should have in their wardrobe, either single or double-breasted and made from wool, for example. This is a suit that fits in any context and provides a dose of style together with a touch of elegance, perfect for job interviews, meetings, used in events or even for a wedding. It is a garment that does not need to be used everyday but the black colour is great for winter nights. The fabrics of wool we work with can be used all year long giving interesting insulating properties and anti-crease. If in doubt, do not hesitate to include a black suit whenever you need a new suit. Black tones have the virtue of being appropriate in the most elegant and also casual situations."
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