Written by Menswear Style in New Collections on the 14th January 2020

The Autumn/Winter 2020 Belstaff Collection sees Creative Director Sean Lehnhardt-Moore continue on his journey of developing the contemporary spirit of this Great British brand. A passion for the brand’s history and archive – bringing together references to Belstaff’s timeless pieces, signature materials (such as waxed cotton and leather), and easy silhouettes – is merged with the embracing of new developments in terms of fabric combinations and treatments. This mix of the innovative and the classic creates strikingly individual outfits. Through these, Belstaff builds a well-rounded contemporary wardrobe that is built for modern life. Importantly, by creating pieces designed to last that hold their appeal season after season, Belstaff’s sustainable design philosophy encourages a more conscious approach to dressing.

"Belstaff has always been for those who have a curious, adventurous spirit. These people are connected by an attitude – they are not defined by age, or geography, or culture; instead they represent a universal desire to push the boundaries and explore what it is to be alive. I have taken inspiration from when Belstaff outfitted the early motorists, bikers and aviators, and how they would blend functional and practical protective clothing with more traditional and finer quality pieces. It is the unexpected combinations that this gives rise to that intrigue me and I have sought to replicate this British idiosyncratic style by mixing the rough with the smooth, the tough with the refined, the classic with the modern. Hence: Heroes of the Road." - Sean Lehnhardt-Moore, Belstaff Creative Director

Heroes of the Road is about extending this wardrobe. The hand-waxed leather and cotton that has made the label a byword for functional and contemporary clothing is still the foundation, as is the commitment to using the finest natural yarns such as wool and flannel, and integrating these with technical fabrics and hardwearing canvas. The result is a versatile, relaxed look perfect for life today where the sartorial boundaries of work, leisure and social engagements have become so blurred.

STORY 1: TRACKSIDE 

A group of pieces inspired by the authentic, customised vintage leathers of the motorcycle race circuits of the ‘50s to ‘70s. A custom-made jacket from the Belstaff archive from the ‘50s has been modernised to create the Enduro Trialmaster, in red waxed cotton with a burnt patina. Other hand-waxed leather jackets include the Cylinder, Trapster and Jet models, graphic and bold in red, off-white and black. There is also a new Trialmaster trouser, a multi-pocket style echoing details of the iconic jacket of the same name. The palette of the MOTO range is earthy, combining biscuit, black and red with vintage whites, and there are brushed cotton shirts inspired by the plaid of a vintage biker jacket lining. The spirit is that of the racetrack, as the graphics reference. Belstaff combines this with British classics like a blanket-stripe woollen military overcoat and over-sized hand-knits. In among the rugged corduroy and sun-bleached cotton, there is also a sense of sharp elegance – the type of clean merino roll necks and flannel trousers you would have found on the playboy racers of the ‘60s. The Trialmaster boot with buckle and strap provides the perfect complementary footwear.

STORY 2: OVERLAND 

Speaking to Belstaff’s history of outfitting the military, this section plays with the codes of utility clothing. Working with three of Belstaff’s signature colours – black, olive and ecru – the mood here is country meets city. The Border Duffle Coat is in engineered blanket stripe wool, while the Hike Jacket is a parka in wool plaid and dry waxed cotton. Tough fabrics like storm fleece and ottoman nylon are mixed with softer wool/cashmere and shearling – throughout there is a combination of honest, hard-wearing items like the Scout Parka in nylon (with heavy down fill) and cosier pieces like deep-dyed cotton herringbone over-shirts and trousers. Shearling and waxed leather add a tactile element, as do Fair Isle sweaters, roll necks, scarves hats and gloves. The rugged Marshal boot, a walking boot with eyelets, in waxed calf or tough suedes, and the Trent boot in cotton canvas combined with burnished leather, augment this group.

STORY 3: GARAGE 

Channelling the sensibility of vintage English racing cars, where luxury leather interiors, glossy enamel and elegant chrome details characterise beautiful machines, and a garage was as much a temple to luxury design as to oil and wrenches. The garage group sees the introduction of Kelly green, navy blue and grey, as well as black for smooth leather (suggesting luxury motor interiors). Plus, there is the widespread use of Black Watch plaid as a key pattern, in wide women’s trousers and the Watchman Jacket for men and Devyn Jacket for women. Rich shearling pieces for women in pine green and dark ink are plush, while tougher leather aviator-style jackets for men and women recall Belstaff’s history of making garments worn by early fliers. The Trialmaster jacket, as worn by motorcycle champion Sammy Miller in the Scottish Six Days Trial in 1955, has been made in 'Miller Green' with a check lining to look almost identical to the original. Charcoal flannel and black corduroy bring a refined sensibility to trousers. The garage look is finished off with the Longton waxy suede Chelsea boot.

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A first look at Creative Director Sean Lehnhardt-Moore's Autumn/Winter 2020 Heroes of the Road Collection for Belstaff.