LC:M 2015 HIGHLIGHTS (AW15)
OUR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN ROUNDUP
Now spread over 4 days, there’s no stopping the success of LCM! This season we partnered with Burberry to livestream their runway show on our homepage, geared up in Reiss to support their #ReissLive campaign, and documented the backstage mayhem courtesy of Toni & Guy, Topman and Sassoon. A big thanks to MWS Larry, Gemma, Craig, and Andree for putting in the long hours.
Ada x Nik - Ada Zanditon and Nik Thakkar stayed true to their aesthetic, presenting layers of black in leather and meshed fabric paired with skinny trousers and shorts. Nubby, oversized cream knits softened some of the edges with a more touchable feel and the pair continued to play with hemlines.
Agi & Sam – give a 2 year old a bowl of Cheerios and guaranteed they’ll be stuck to his face after 10 minutes. Now imagine that but with Lego… jokes aside, it was a strong collection of ripped up coats and jackets stuck back together with Velcro like a puzzle.
Alex Mullins - moving away from the patchwork to present a slightly androgynous collection using indigo denim as the anchoring fabric. The signature raw, exposed seams and uneven hemlines were paired with flared, high-waisted indigo trousers and quirky pilgrim shoes to give a deconstructed, yet effective mood.
Astrid Andersen - a bold and hyper-masculine collection fusing both Japanese and Urban influences to convey a somber, almost melancholy mood with military overtones. Hoodies and jumpers with slick leather and iridescent details were paired with loose jogging bottoms in shiny reflective fabric, reminiscent of an shimmering oil spill in an urban terrain.
Barbour - making their LCM debut in style by presenting both classic pieces alongside a collaboration with Japanese brand White Mountaineering. While the outdoorsy feel of past collections remained the same, camouflage-like print suggested that the brand was stepping into more experimental territory with raw-edged knits, printed anoraks and cargo trousers sitting comfortably beside classic corduroys and tweeds.
Baartmans and Siegel - with nostalgia at the heart of the collection we were excited about the brazen attitude to statement dressing; flourishes of bold, masculine colours like cardinal red, admiral blue and parakeet green adding drama to base tones of white and charcoal.
Belstaff - Motorbikes, leather and an underground car park - it can only be Belstaff. The collection, 'Ton-Up Boy' was influenced by Marlon Brando in the seminal 1953 movie 'The Wild One' but with a British twist adding elements of wax cotton riding together with military surplus garments.
Burberry – a collection that Christopher Bailey describes as "Classically Bohemian" was shown to the soundtrack of the incredible British singer-songwriter Clare Maguire who performed four songs live, including one written specifically for the collection. A true Goosebumps experience as usual and we spotted lots of wool collars, cord, long tassel scarves, teddy bear coats and animal prints.
Casely-Hayford - choosing several versatile light layers as a metaphor for armour and protection, they explore textures and decorative surfaces with a softer organic feel all with an underline futuristic, techno twist.
Christopher Raeburn – Survival, Endurance and Immersion are the inspired words for this collection named RAFT. The main focus was inflatable jackets which had everyone ashamedly thinking about pins.
Ede and Ravenscroft - taking inspiration from the Edwardian era to present a collection that was exactly what you'd expect from the World's oldest firm of tailors. Presented in four stories i.e 'Uniform', 'City Gent' 'Out of Town' and 'Formal Dress', the brand showcased the versatility of sharp, exacting tailoring and luxurious fabrics for the modern gentleman.
Harvey Nichols - the Haculla X Trapstar Redline designed in collaboration between British cult streetwear label Trapstar and New York artist Harif Guzman was presented. The AW15 collection consists of 12 looks featuring iconic styles embellished with printed and embroidered street art.
James Long - searching for the perfect jacket, look no further. The collection featured oversized sheepskin combat jackets, leather bombers, textured denim jackets, colour and lace that brought a modern sense of baroque. What is not to love?
Kate Eary - a highly surreal collection that wasn't shy of colour. Acid orange and violet punctuated by fur trims and iridescent fabrics reigned supreme, giving the collection an almost cartoon-like feel. Anatomical references showed up in rib cage and organ motifs on jumpers and t-shirts, perhaps suggesting a darker side. The overdrawn eyes and sense of sinister fun was reminiscent of controversial film 'A Clockwork Orange' but all in all, a punchy collection.
Louis Leeman - continuing their tradition of unapologetic opulence for every occasion, they presented a Navy-inspired collection that was elegant and sumptuous with an element of fun. Set in an oversized version of the classic game 'Battleship' the pieces incorporated chevron designs, camouflage-printed pony hair and thick gold hardware to reflect the military feel.
Maharishi - with the original masters of stealth being the main inspiration and the base pumping, the excitement was built up the minute the lights turned on. With emerald green as well as shinobi plum at the heart of the collection we were enthralled by the incorporation of the five animals of the Chi Gung Fu in handwork embroidery and print.
Matthew Miller – equally inspired by romance and decay, Miller sets out to chart the “systematic destruction of everything we could have been.” The range is a gathering of understated clashing textures and the colourways range from grey and indigo blue to bright reds and burgundy.
Nasir Mazhar - vision for this season involved an exploration of the idea of a uniform. Keeping the design simple and rooted in the urban influences of his past collections, the pieces focused on separates in a variety of fabrics to reflect the occasion.
Oliver Spencer – everybody’s new favourite band ‘The Turbans’ played live during this walk. Influence for the collection is from artist and sculptor David Nash, with soft fabrics such as alpaca, recycled cashmere and super fine lambswool appearing throughout.
Paul Smith - bringing new meaning to the travel suit, Paul presents uniquely dynamic tailoring using high-twist 100% wool yarn constructed with quick recovery crease-resistant cloth that has water-repellent qualities.
Pringle of Scotland – set in a breath-taking hall at Middle Temple, Pringle showed their wonderful and wearable evolution of “knitwear as outwear” featuring argyle and tartan patterns, as well as Scottish cashmere hand knits and traditional Prince of Wales checks.
Richard James - a bold, distinctly durable collection that embodies the modern gent. Granite, blue-grey, blood red, fuchsia and burnt yellows all coming together to create that luxury and elegance we all know and love.
Sankuanz - a distinctive and playful aesthetic is at the heart of the collection. Creating a unique world outside of the constraints of mainstream society we were offered an alternative form of expression. Neoprene fabrics with exquisite dobby prints, contemporary and functional fabrics with traditional menswear craftwork.
Senhor Prudencio - never one to rest on his laurels, Joao Filipe decided to push his shoe and accessory brand in a new direction with his "Dual" collection. Based on the idea that paired garments should never be identical, but perfectly complement each other, Joao played with the idea of duality to present a crisp, clean collection that was practical for everyman.
Several - nautical themes permeated the AW15 collection with sea greens and deep blue tones showing up on chunky knitted fisherman jumpers and leather accessories. The shapes stayed classic and wearable so as not to alienate dedicated followers of the brand, but the stand out wide-collared black jacket perhaps hinted at an imminent departure from the tried and true.
Sir Tom Baker - a predictably irreverent collection of finely tailored suits, perfect for the man with a whole lot of attitude. Presented in a series of mini collections, each section exhibited elements that both celebrated and subverted traditional techniques.
Tiger of Sweden - from the unlikely inspiration of late 1970's depression and the emergence of post-punk synth music, the Tiger of Sweden man emerged in 2015 donning a skinny high-waisted suit with cropped trousers reminiscent of the band Kraftwerk.
Topman Design – The moment the opening show started everyone was wide awake and energised thanks to the bright colours, chalk stripe suits, the tartan patchwork and the emblem mohairs.
Velsvoir - a modern interpretation of the Forties Gangster in a speakeasy setting, deep in the London Edition Hotel. The collection was a celebration of pinstripes of varying widths in shades of Navy and Liberty Blue, paired with textured waistcoats, braces and sleeve garters. All wasn't completely serious though with cheeky pipe-printed ties hinting at a more playful mood.
Xander Zhou - enter the world of cowboys and the Wild West with box shapes forming depth and volume without layers. Featuring bold details and bright colours it is safe to say this collections does not lack temperature.
William Stone - a contemporary collection that was thoughtful, cohesive and thoroughly modern. With a maturity that belied his years, this collection was one of the strongest debuts of the season featuring subtle, yet effective prints and a slim silhouette. He managed to achieve what some established designers find elusive: a thoughtful, appropriate and infinitely wearable collection that will appeal to a wide range of men.
YMC - as a label renowned for not working to one theme or conforming to a particular seasonal trend, the men’s AW15 collection stays true to the brands ethos and offers a melange of sportswear, workwear and 90s minimalism infused with an 80s NYC No-Wave attitude.