BRAND PROFILE: LARDINI
FEATURING RVR LARDINI, GABRIELE PASINI AND NICK WOOSTER
During the last edition of Pitti Uomo, the Lardini Group displayed their autumn/winter 2015-16 collections of its four clothing lines: Lardini, RVR Lardini, Gabriele Pasini and Wooster + Lardini. After speaking with them and chatting with Nick Wooster, we dug deeper to find out more about their menswear offering.
This season Lardini have taken their inspiration from the Brits and created a base palette of white. We see a fresh new style with a feature piece of an all-white coat made from casentino wool jersey, along with a favourite of the season - a slouch-chic jacket and coat in (bouclé) knop yarn for pure comfort.
For a more formal look, Lardini have made use of alpaca/mohair blend tartan plaids in wine red, green, navy blue, black. Scottish loom-woven patchwork fabric in washed shetland wool also feature for a preppier style in a range of neutral shades, from beige to camel to brown. The sweater ‘meets’ jacket concept is designed for elegance and comfort, and it looks like a jacket but is as soft and comfortable as a sweater.
Innovative designs this season give focus to a reversible pea coat and trench duster. Another standout is the classic hooded parka and cloth topcoat tech field jacket. The double-breasted trench is made from rain-resistant twill and turns into a smart navy blue wool melton peacoat with interesting collar details.
Another popular design is the reversible duster, season after season, made from wool on one side, and waterproof tech fabric on the other. Or for a more formal design and structure – Lardini have created wool flannel on one side and microprint nylon on the other, both appropriate for sartorial occasions.
Lardini have also kept to the basics of men’s clothing, with the single or double-breasted jacket, the double-breasted coat with spear lapels, and cashmere and wool knit lined hooded goose-down jacket.
The latest range from Gabriele Pasini has been described as a "classic spirit." Starting with classic smart-casual to cocktail looks in a variety of different styles. Soft fabrics with texture to create definition to Pasini’s classic three-piece suits in saxony wool. Or jacquard coats with contrast casentino lapels.
A colour palette of dark blue to different shades of grey, all the way to white and black. Patterns of madras and macro plaid Shetland jackets with bouclé piping, and for added attention there are small flecks of orange and green throughout. For a slightly feminine and distinctive style we see animal prints – leopard spot and zebra stripe.
However, this season there are also leather jackets with studded shoulders, along with vintage jeans and jacquard shirts. Completing the collection with a soft finish are a range of wool ponchos for comfort and warmth.
Wooster + Lardini
For the second season running, Lardini have collaborated with Nick Wooster. Beginning with a range of traditional smart jackets for the sartorial man, the collection is nothing short of unusual. The styling brings together two complete opposite ideals; feminine meets masculine. When talking with Nick he explained the designs are all heavily his ideas in terms of which fabrics he wanted where and how he wanted the overall aesthetic.
His choice of unusual but interesting fabric combinations have resulted in patchwork jackets made from hounds-tooth and Prince of Wales designs - needless to say, they work!
Like Lardini's classic collections, the fit and the finish are precise in single-breasted and double-breasted jackets both with peak lapels. The shape of the lapel and the flaps on the pockets are slightly exaggerated and each style comes with a choice of vest and classic pleated trouser.
When the jackets are paired with trousers in both combinations of cotton, wool and linen, in a more military style, we see classic tailoring with a twist. Creating a testament to two parties; Wooster + Lardini. Just like the trousers we're familiar with Wooster wearing regularly, Lardini have created styles with an elongated crotch and in various lengths with a strong emphasis on pleats and a new wide leg style.
Outerwear for the range is very important. There are four basic styles are: the pea coat, the long military great coat, the field jacket and Wooster’s choice on the best-selling RVR style, the Urbino. Each coat, although classical, blends technical materials such as coat jersey compacted melton, boiled cashmere and removable asymmetric mink collars.
As for footwear, we often see Nick in Vans so Lardini have collaborated with US sneaker brand GREATS to create classic slip-ons - where colours are bright and Harris Tweed patterns in reflective silver and orange feature.