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7 Hidden References You Didn’t See at Prada FW23

Following the disbandment of his own label late last year, many were left wondering what Raf Simons would do in his role at Prada, where he’s worked in partnership with the eponymous Miuccia Prada since 2020. In their latest collaboration, the duo delivered a truly timeless and relevant collection of Menswear staples.

Elongated Spearpoint Collars in The Style of David Bowie 

Prada’s FW’23 Menswear show was awash with Bowie-esque spearpoint collars. Originating from the 1920s (see Old Hollywood icon Cab Calloway in his 5” spearpoint) and later resurfacing at the Don't Worry Darling premier at Venice Film Festival on Harry Styles in late-September 2022.

00s Dress-Over-Skirt Pairings 

Dress and suit-pant pairings are the stuff a men’s-meets-womenswear marriage is made of: lest Miuccia and Raf’s creative direction begets androgynous dressing, the pair did not disappoint. 

Lil Nas X’s Staple Shirtless Blazer Combo 

As the rapper refuses to elude our Spotify and Social Media feeds, his style now creeps into the realm of high fashion with illustrious force in the form of Prada’s FW23 show.

The White Lotus Pantones 

Muted browns, pastel pinks; yellows and blues reared their heads as flashes of coloured-collars and statement soft knits. The fashion trending series came through in subtle, tastefully executed form. 

The Guardian Inspired Beige Uniforms 

The monochrome beige collared round neck and pant pairing elicited an undeniably Handmaid’s Tale uniformity. As seen on the series’ Guardian characters throughout the seasons, Prada played off the utilitarian look with neutral colour schemes and clean cuts.

Audrey H-esque Cinched-Waist Cigarette 

Classic cuts with a modern twist reigned in the form of effeminate, block coloured Hepburn-style cigarette pants. 

Nods to Prada’s Cult Sporting Line - Linnea Rossa 

A souped-up iteration of the longstanding Prada trope carried a thread of red through the FW23 collection. The sporty, racing motif features heavily in the brand’s sell-out Linea Rosa line. From ski goggles to gilets, to simple tees and beanies, Raf and Miuccia effortlessly blended the brand’s streetwear aesthetic with its latest ready-to-wear collection.

Orla Lavery

Orla is a London-based fashion, arts and culture journalist, with a personal and professional habit in menswear. Having worked in the industry for over 10 years, she now specialises in the fashion business space, consulting to a number of brands on their business strategy and optimising for sustainable, long-term growth.

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