Written by Craig Landale in Fashion History on the 1st February 2024

In the realm of men's outerwear, few garments evoke the same sense of timeless elegance and versatility as the peacoat. With its roots firmly planted in naval history, this iconic piece has transcended its military origins to become a cornerstone of contemporary fashion. Let's delve into the rich history, enduring popularity, craftsmanship, and some of the best brands that have mastered the art of crafting the perfect peacoat.

A Brief History

The peacoat traces its lineage back to the early 18th century when it was originally worn by European sailors. Its design, characterized by a double-breasted front, broad lapels, and a sturdy wool construction, was well-suited to withstand the harsh conditions at sea. The term "pea" likely derives from the Dutch word "pije," referring to the coarse wool fabric used in its construction. By the 19th century, the peacoat had become standard issue in many navies around the world, including the British Royal Navy and the United States Navy. Its practical design and exceptional warmth made it indispensable for sailors braving the cold, unforgiving waters.

Popularity and Evolution

The peacoat's transition from naval uniform to civilian staple began in earnest during the 20th century. Its enduring appeal lies in its ability to seamlessly blend form and function. The sleek silhouette and classic design make it a versatile option for both casual and formal occasions, while its insulating properties ensure warmth in cold climates. Over the years, the peacoat has undergone subtle modifications to suit contemporary tastes while retaining its essential elements. Modern iterations may feature variations in length, fabric choices, and detailing, but the timeless aesthetic remains unchanged. 

Craftsmanship and Construction

Crafting a quality peacoat requires precision and attention to detail. Traditionally made from heavy wool, the construction involves meticulous tailoring to ensure a flattering fit and enduring durability. Double-breasted closure with anchor buttons, broad lapels, and handwarmer pockets are hallmarks of a well-crafted peacoat. The choice of wool is crucial, with merino and melton wool being popular options for their warmth and resilience. Quality stitching and reinforced seams contribute to the peacoat's longevity, making it a wise investment for years to come.

Top Brands

While numerous brands offer their take on the classic peacoat, several stand out for their commitment to quality craftsmanship and timeless design. Here are some of the best brands renowned for their exceptional peacoats: 

1. Schott NYC: With a heritage dating back to 1913, Schott NYC is synonymous with iconic outerwear. Their peacoats feature rugged construction, premium materials, and a classic aesthetic that pays homage to their military roots. 

2. Gloverall: Founded in 1951, Gloverall has a long-standing reputation for producing high-quality coats, including the quintessential duffle coat and, of course, the peacoat. Their offerings combine traditional craftsmanship with contemporary styling for a modern twist on a classic silhouette. 

3. Billy Reid: Known for his Southern-inspired menswear, Billy Reid offers a range of impeccably tailored peacoats that exude understated sophistication. Crafted from luxurious materials and featuring thoughtful design details, their peacoats are a testament to timeless elegance. 

4. Community Clothing: This brand has a simple mission. To make the very best quality everyday clothing; to make it from the very best natural materials in the very best factories right here in the UK; and to sell it at great prices that everyone can afford. 

5. &Sons: Taking cues from the earliest ‘pijjekker’ &Sons have focused on the detail, keeping their branding to a minimum and balancing form with function. With their peacoat design they went back to basics, taking inspiration from the archives. 

6. Private White V.C.: This British-made brand's Peacoat features exclusive 30oz Melton wool, made just 20 minutes from their Manchester factory and woven so tightly that it’s windproof and shower resistant.

In conclusion, the peacoat's journey from naval uniform to fashion essential is a testament to its enduring appeal and timeless design. Whether worn by sailors braving the high seas or by modern gentlemen navigating the urban landscape, the peacoat remains a symbol of classic sophistication and understated elegance. With its rich history, enduring popularity, and impeccable craftsmanship, the peacoat continues to hold its rightful place as a wardrobe staple for generations to come.

Popularity and Evolution, Craftsmanship and Construction, A Brief History, and Tops Brands such as Gloverall, &Sons, Community Clothing, and Private White V.C.